The weight of the trailer and the weigh capacity of the trailer are the major considerations when determining a tow vehicle.  There is a lot to consider.

When considering a towing vehicle, keep in mind certain requirements for safe and easy use.
1. Transmission – The transmission can be manual or automatic, but for most people, an automatic transmission will control engine loads better.
2. Power – Make sure your towing vehicle has adequate power to tow your trailer on the type of roads you will be using. Factors to consider are engine power, cooling capabilities, and axle ratio. Discuss the towing capabilities of your vehicle with your tow vehicle dealer.
3. Tires & Suspension – It is important to make sure that your tow vehicle tires and suspension have a sufficient rating to handle the additional capacity needed to tow a trailer. Check with your tow vehicle dealer and owner’s manual for what type of tires and tire pressures are required. If your tow vehicle is equipped with air shocks, do not use the air shocks as a load leveling device to level the tow vehicle/ trailer combination once it is hitched up.
4. Hitch – Make sure that your towing vehicle is equipped with a weight distributing hitch that has a rating at least equal to the GVWR. Make sure that it is installed per the hitch manufacturer’s instructions, and that it meets the tow vehicle’s requirements for fit and performance.
5. Sway Control – Make sure to install a sway control system that is compatible with both your hitch and tow vehicle. Have it installed and properly adjusted per the manufacturer’s instructions.
6. Safety Equipment – Make sure to install proper safety equipment such as towing mirrors. In most states they are required by law. Most styles available are not permanent and can be easily installed and removed. Check with your mirror dealer for correct types and methods of installation. Also make sure to install proper hitch wiring to supply 12 volt power to the trailer for turn signal and brake light operations.


Your electric trailer brakes on your restroom trailer are basically the same as the brakes in your tow vehicle. Hydraulic pressure is used to expand the brake shoes in your tow vehicle, while an electric circuit is used to perform the same function on your portable restroom trailer. This electric circuit uses a combination of electromagnets and the rotation of the brake drum to accomplish the movement of brake shoes against the drum.

Your electric brakes are wired to the towing vehicle through the electrical pigtail. When attached and properly adjusted, they distribute even braking power to both the towing vehicle and the specialty trailer.

Make sure to test the brakes on your trailer and adjust them as necessary, per the instructions of the brake controller manufacturer. Proper adjustment of the brakes can help to avoid dangerous swaying or jack-knifing on slippery pavement, or during an emergency stop.

It is very important to achieve the proper balance between the brake action of both the restroom trailer and tow vehicle.

Both sets of brakes were designed to stop only the vehicle on which they were installed. If one set of brakes is asked to absorb the load of the other also, excess heat is formed, which increases brake lining wear. If the tow vehicle’s brakes are used alone, the weight of the restroom trailer pushing on the back of the tow vehicle can cause jack-knifing. The correct method of brake synchronization has the Restroom Trailer brakes being applied with a slight lead over the tow vehicle’s brakes. Make sure this proper balance is achieved when the controller is installed and adjusted.

Before taking your restroom trailer on a trip, check for proper brake action on a short road test. Apply the brakes several times at different speeds and pressure. If wheel lock-up occurs, the brake shoe adjustment is too tight. If no restroom trailer brake action is occurring, brake shoe adjustment is too loose. Do not exceed a speed of 25 mph during this road test. Refer to the Brake/Axle Owner’s Manual for adjustment procedures and troubleshooting guide.


To ensure safe towing, make sure you have a suitable vehicle, and hitch for your trailer. It is the trailer owner’s responsibility to correctly match the combination of tow vehicle and portable restroom trailer. Contact a hitch specialist, who can help you match your tow vehicle and hitch, and equip you with a properly installed brake controller.

  • Make sure the ball on your hitch matches the coupler size on the portable restroom trailer (unless optioned otherwise the standard ball is 2 5/16″).  A pintle ring requires a special truck connection.
  • Use the jack to raise the coupler high enough for the hitch ball to slip beneath.
  • Release the coupler-locking device (raise the lever).
  • Back your tow vehicle into mounting position for your restroom trailer.
  • When properly aligned lower the restroom trailer coupler onto the ball.
  • Continue raising the jack until it is fully raised.
  • Latch the coupler-locking device (It is very important to lower the lever and insert a pin in the lock hole).
  • Connect the safety chains by crossing the chains beneath the coupler and attach them to the tow vehicle.
  • Allow enough slack for turning, but no dragging (Tip: if chains are too long, simply twist them).
  • Connect the electrical plug on the restroom trailers to the plug on the tow vehicle. Check to make sure that all running, directional, and brake lights are functioning.
  • Load properly approx. 60% in front of the axles (you want 10-15% of the trailer and load weight on the hitch.  Please note: a floor plan with standard storage space on the rear of the trailer may start with a heavier hitch weight to compensate for rear load potential), balance the load side to side, and secure it (you don’t want it getting loose). Don’t overload, go by acceptable payload ratings or you may void the warranty.
  • Take a trial run and familiarize yourself with the handling characteristics of your tow vehicle and restroom or specialty trailer.



Delivery to site should be performed by an experienced driver with appropriate driver’s license. The delivery site for the restroom trailer should be reasonably level, dry and well drained. As the site position is chosen it is important to allow space for a pumper truck to park close to the trailer. There is a dump valve located at the front hitch end of the portable restroom trailer that the pumper truck will connect and remove waste from restroom tank. Access may be needed by a truck each day as the unit may need to be pumped out daily.


Most restroom trailers are powered with electricity. It is recommended to provide each restroom trailer with at least two independent and dedicated 20 amp power circuits. (A winter package with electrical heaters will require more electrical power) The dedicated circuit means there is no other power draw on the circuit. It normally is the site owner’s responsibility to supply power cables to the trailer and insure that the lines and the circuit to which they are connected have no other power draw on them.


Most electrical problems in the restroom trailer are caused by lack of proper amount of power to the trailer. An air conditioner may start but will kick off a breaker after a short time without adequate electrical power. Be sure that each power cord is properly sized (gauge) for a) the distance it will run and b) the 20 amps it will draw. A light weight electrical cord will lose power the farther it is away from the power source. A generator is recommended for the restroom trailer if the power source is more than 150 ft. from the restroom trailer.


Every restroom trailer will need to have a garden hose with a minimum water pressure of 40 psi and a flow rate of 5 gallons per minute at the restroom trailer. There is a city water connection on the trailer provided below the mechanical room. A standard ¾” garden hose should be able to pressurize and provide fresh water for the toilets and sinks.


If an on board fresh water tank is provided in the mechanical room of the restroom trailer, a water pump will need to be turned on in order to draw the water from the tank. When the restroom trailer is equipped with an on-board fresh water tank, the water needed for toilet flushing or hand washing can be drawn from this tank.






Restroom Trailer Delivery to site should be performed by an experienced driver with appropriate driver’s license. The restroom trailer axles have electric brakes and require the towing truck to have an electric brake controller.

The delivery site for the restroom trailer should be reasonably level, dry and well drained. As the site position is chosen it is important to allow space for a pumper truck to park close to the trailer. There is a dump valve located at the front hitch end of the restroom trailer that the pumper truck will connect and remove waste from restroom trailer tank. Access may be needed by a truck each day as the restroom trailer may need to be pumped out daily.


Stabilizer jacks are provided with the restroom trailer but are not to be used to level the trailer. The stabilizer jacks (stab jacks are just to be used to help remove the bounce of the spring axles and rubber tires while in set up position. Use blocks to help bring the tires of the restroom trailer into a level position.


Most restroom trailers are powered with electricity. If you have trouble with the operation of any of the electric appliances including the air conditioning or optional heaters the most common problem with a restroom trailer is not providing enough power to properly operate it. Each restroom trailer will have at least one shore line cord to provide power. The more electrical appliances installed within the restroom trailer, the larger the need for electricity.



There is a city water connection provided below the mechanical room. A standard ¾” garden hose will be able to pressurize and provide fresh water for the toilets and sinks.



If an on board fresh water tank is provided in the mechanical room a water pump will need to be turned on in order to draw the water from the tank.



A large waste tank is built into the frame structure of the restroom trailer. All toilets and sinks are directly above the waste tank and are drained directly into the waste tank. A 3” dump valve is installed on the towing end of the trailer to allow a pumper truck to pump the waste from the restroom trailer.

The standard toilet is a low flush toilet which uses a foot pedal to allow water into the bowl and then to open ball at bottom of bowl for waste to exit into the waste tank.

Helpful hint-

For use of toilet when solids are to be deposited into the bowl first push foot pedal approximately half way to floor which will allow water into the bowl. After use the bowl is used the foot pedal is then pushed to the floor.

The sinks installed in the trailer are standard with water conserving faucets which operate by pushing down on top valve. The valve is set to shut off in approximately 10 seconds and can be adjusted with a set screw under the top valve cover. (See faucet manual included with trailer)


The restroom trailer will have a roof mounted air conditioning unit that is ducted into each of the separate rooms. The air conditioning is powered with 110v and operated with a wall mounted thermostat. The thermostat is normally located in one of the public restrooms with a locked cover over the controls. The desired temperature can be set and then the box locked over the thermostat to prevent public tampering with the temperature. (If electric heaters are installed in the restroom trailer they will be controlled with separate thermostats)


Most concerns with restroom trailers begin with a lack of appropriate power necessary to run it. Begin your set up and operation of the restroom trailer by confirming you will have the necessary utilities to operate it.


Following these recommendations for the care and cleaning of your stainless steel sink will insure that it will provide you with many years of service.

Regular cleaning is important to maintain the appearance of your stainless steel sink.  Use only a mild liquid dishwashing detergent with a soft sponge to clean and then thoroughly rinse the sink.  Rinse thoroughly after each use. A thorough rinsing of the sink can be done by running water for a few minutes and rubbing the cleaned area with a clean sponge.  Towel  dry the sink after each use to prevent mineral deposits from building up on the surface of the sink.

Do Not …Use a steel wool pad to clean your sink.  Steel wool pads have a tendency to break apart and small particles of steel can become embedded in the surface of the sink. The steel particles will rust and will give the appearance that the sink itself is rusting.

Do Not …Allow soap or other household cleansers to dry on the surface of the sink. Most brands contain chemical additives which will affect the original finish.

Do Not …Use solutions of chlorine bleach and water in the sink. Chlorides, which are found in most soaps, detergents, bleaches, and cleansers, are very aggressive to stainless steel. If left on the sink too long they can cause surface pitting.

Do Not …Use rubber mats or dishpans in the sink. Leaving rubber mats or dishpans in the sink can lead to surface rust or possible pitting. However, if you insist on using mats or dishpans, please remove them after each use.

Do Not …Leave wet sponges, cloths, or cleaning pads on the sink. This can lead to surface rust.


Today, chlorides are found in most all soap, detergents, bleaches and cleansers; chlorides can be aggressive to stainless steel.  However, chlorides are very water soluble.  Therefore, THOROUGH RINSING of your sink after each use to remove any chloride residue and a weekly cleaning is all that is required to keep your sink looking bright and shiny.


Like many metallic surfaces, your stainless steel sink will scratch. These are merely usage scratches and over time will blend into the overall finish of your sink.  Scratches in the sink bottom can be blended in using a green Scotch Brite wipe pad – being sure to rub in the swirl direction of the finish lines.


The quality of your water can affect your sink’s appearance. If your water has a high iron content, a brown surface stain can form on the sink giving the appearance of rust. Additionally, in areas with a high concentration of minerals, or with over-softened water, a white film may develop on the sink. To combat these problems, we suggest that the sink be towel dried after use.   Heavy salt concentration or foods containing high levels of salt should not be allowed to dry on the sink surface.  Rinse your sink thoroughly after use.


As described, the waterless urinal is just that,” waterless”. There are not restroom trailer fresh water plumbing lines connected to the urinal or a flush valve installed at the top of the urinal. The urinals don’t flush but instead, they drain by gravity into the waste tank of the restroom trailer.

The waterless urinal looks like regular urinals and is used like regular urinals. The waste drains naturally, without being forced out like a traditional urinal. The key to the waterless urinal is the special cartridge trap at the bottom of the urinal. As the urine enters the urinal bowl it flows to the bottom into a cartridge where it comes in contact with a layer of sealant liquid with a specific gravity less than water. The urine passes through this sealant liquid where this sealant liquid acts as an airtight barrier that isolates the urine from the restroom trailer, providing odor free operation. In addition, uric sediment collects at the bottom of the cartridge, preventing buildup and keeping pipes cleaner than with traditional flush urinals.

Because the urinal cartridge does collect uric sediment, it is recommended to replace the cartridge of the waterless urinal in the restroom trailer every three months or about 7,000 uses. When the old cartridge trap is pulled and before the cartridge trap is placed in the urinal, it is recommended to clean restroom trailer urinal piping by pouring gallons of water into the urinal and down the drain into the restroom trailer holding tank. The cartridges are easily changed with a tool provided with the cartridge and they are readily available on the internet. Maintenance and Cleaning of “Waterless Urinal” in a Restroom Trailer:

Perform cleaning once a day, or as needed

Remove any litter in the bowl and clear cartridge holes

Use mild disinfectant cleaner on a cloth to wipe the bowl

DO NOT use aggressive/concentrated detergents or any other chemicals on your restroom trailer.

DO NOT dispose of water into the restroom trailer urinal.

With the focus on “going green” over the past number of years, more venues are installing the waterless urinals (including locations such as minor league baseball stadiums, New York Mets Citi Field Stadium and the Shedd Aquarium in Chicago). When used in a restroom trailer, a waterless urinal will conserve on the filling of the waste tank and save on pumper truck trips to dump the waste tank.


Add water to bowl

To add water to the restroom trailer toilet, press the flush pedal part way down. Water flows into the bowl while flush ball remains closed. If the flush ball moves, let up on the pedal slightly. Adding water to an empty restroom trailer toilet bowl helps prevent holding tank odors from entering the living space. Adding water is recommended prior to flushing solids and toilet paper in the restroom trailer toilet.

Flush toilet on a restroom trailer

To flush, press pedal down until it contacts the floor. Release pedal after complete flush.

• When flushing liquids, press the pedal for 1-2 seconds.

• When flushing solids in a restroom trailer, press pedal until contents are rinsed from bowl. Flushing longer than necessary will cause holding tank to fill too quickly.

A small amount of water will collect in the bowl after a flush to create an airtight seal


To prevent holding tank odors from entering the living space, make sure a small amount of water remains in the toilet bowl of the restroom trailer.


A portable restroom trailer will normally include a gravity flow toilet.  This toilet does not operate the same as the toilet in your house.  There is not a reservoir of water on the toilet to push the waste upon flushing.  Instead the toilet opens directly over the waste holding tank.  If there is odor in the restroom it is because the standard gravity toilet opens directly above the tank and may allow tank odor to penetrate into the bathroom.

In gravity-flush toilets, when water is added to the bowl and stays in the bowl it acts as an odor seal between the bowl and the tank. To continue performing this vital job, the seal and flush ball or valve must remain clean and smooth so that water does not leak down and out of the bowl. Be aware that it takes regular cleaning to ensure this function remains effective. Mineral and waste build up can damage the seal, meaning the protective water seal cannot function.

To help avoid bad smells from a gravity toilet, use tank treatments that are designed for those toilet systems. Proper waste tank ventilation is also important to make sure that tank treatments work properly and odor is kept to a minimum. So any odor may be more noticeable if the waste tank is not properly treated or ventilated.

So to help reduce odor in the restroom

  1. Add water before and after using the toilet. Keep a little water in bowl to seal against odors from the waste tank.
  2. Keep the toilet clean and make sure the seal in bottom of bowl is cleaned regularly
  3. Add water and chemicals to the waste tank to help reduce odors during use.
  4. Always dump and thoroughly clean waste tank upon returning trailer to storage. ( do not allow solids to dry and harden )

Many RV dealer locations and manufacturers of toilets offer chemicals for a toilet waste tank. A large selection is available on the internet. Some choices can be found at toilet manufacturer Dometic. Click Link


The term L.E.D. is an abbreviation for Light Emitting Diode. In other words, the LED light is a semiconductor chip. It is a strong structure light when used in a restroom trailer. When electricity is passed through the diode the atoms in one material in the semiconductor are energized and need to release that energy. It is this release of energy that creates light. The color of the light from the LED is a determined by the materials that make up the chip.

There are many advantages to using a LED light in a quality restroom trailer:

-High-levels of brightness and intensity which means less eye strain.

– High efficiency and has low voltage requirements. In most LED lights the power needs are less than 1 tenth the needs for a comparable 12v light.

-Low radiated heat on your restroom trailer is a plus. It is only warm to the touch and will not burn the hand when touched. If your restroom trailer is used for rental purposes there is less of a chance that your customer will get burned with a light.

-Highly reliability because it is resistant to shock and vibration on the restroom trailer which is an advantage over a more fragile florescent or incandescent bulb.

-Does not emit any ultraviolet rays that can fade and deteriorate colors in materials.

– Directionality ensures that up to 95% of illumination reaches the target and is not lost in the fixture.

-An LED light does not contain mercury and because of it low use of electricity is considered a green friendly for your restroom trailer.

These more efficient lights are standard with a Rich Specialty Restroom trailer and another reason more customers are buying a factory direct restroom trailer from Rich Specialty Trailers.


There are two ways to monitor the waste level in the Rich Specialty Trailers waste tank: either with an electric monitor or visually with a site glass. The restroom trailer was built with an electrical sensor that will determine how full the tank is. This monitor panel is located in the trailer mechanical room. Its sensor board has 5 lights which will show whether the tank is E (empty), ¼ (1/4 full), ½ ( ½ full), ¾ (3/4 full), or F (tank if full). One of these lights will come on when the trailer “TANK” button is pushed. Before the monitor can operate it must be calibrated with the tank empty and with the tank full.

The electrical sensor monitor should be calibrated with the trailer as close to level as possible.  Depending on where the sensor strips are located on the restroom trailer tank, the readings may be somewhat sensitive to the pitch of the vehicle (due to the fluid sloshing either against or away from the sensor elements mounted to the tank wall). Keep this in mind when interpreting what otherwise might be a malfunctioning sensor or display.


This monitor panel in the trailer features a smart chip calibration algorithm.

Note: You can calibrate either empty or full first but you need to have the tank at the level you want calibrated (i.e. empty for empty or full for full).

When you are calibrating the empty level, start with an empty tank. Hold the tank reading button. While you are holding the tank reading button, press and hold the empty calibration button for 5 seconds (this button is marked with an “E”) lights should then note you have an empty tank.

When you are calibrating the full level for the restroom trailer, fill the tank with water repeat the same procedures above but press the “F” button. The lights should then note when you have a full tank.

The second method to check the level of the restroom trailer tank is to simply open the rear door on the trailer to expose the tank. There is a site strip built into the restroom trailer tank which will allow you to see how high the waste level is against the rear of the tank.



If a restroom trailer will be stored in freezing temperatures it should be winterized to prevent damage to the plumbing system and components. Freezing damage can harm any component of the system, including the water tanks, toilets, urinals, pumps, or restroom trailer piping.

Before you begin to prepare the restroom trailer for cold weather storage, a brief explanation of the plumbing system will help you to understand the operation of the restroom trailer.

The plumbing can be divided into two separate systems. The fresh water system consists of those items which are used to deliver water for your use, while the waste water system is made up of the drains and tanks which store and remove water that has been used on the restroom trailer. Both systems and components require some “winterization”.

If your new restroom trailer was built with an on board fresh water holding tank then the plumbing system has the dual ability to be self- contained with onboard storage, or use facilities provided by an external pressurized source. In either case, the components of the restroom trailer plumbing system operate like those in your home. Components of the plumbing system consist of strong, lightweight, corrosion resistant materials that provide long life and easy cleaning. By following the instructions outlined here, you can expect effi­cient operation with a minimum of restroom trailer maintenance.

(It is important to note that if your restroom trailer was manufactured during the fall or winter months the factory has anti- freeze placed in the water lines to protect them from freezing. The anti-freeze liquid can be recognized by its pink color. This anti-freeze should be flushed from the system after trailer is heated and before each time the trailer is placed into service).

WINTERIZATION – The winterization of the restroom trailer can be accomplished by “adding anti-freeze to the plumbing system” OR by “draining and blowing the water out of the system”.


The first common method to winterize the restroom trailer is to remove the water and replace the fresh water system with an RV trailer brand anti-freeze. (This is available at any large retailer or RV dealer).

Level the restroom trailer to help system drainage. Confirm you have a proper electrical source to the trailer.


Begin this process by first draining as much water out of the on board fresh tank and water lines as possible. The fresh water tank will have a drain located on the bottom of the tank which allows the water to be drained into the waste holding tank below the floor or if allowed, to drain to the ground outside.

1. If your restroom trailer has a water heater, first confirm the electric is turned off to the water heater so you don’t burn up the heating element in water heater when water is removed from your restroom trailer.

2. Turn the water pump switch on.

3. Open all faucets. (Can begin with faucet or toilet farthest from water supply)

4. Run water until all water is drained from the fresh water tank and water lines. This water will be drained into your restroom trailer waste water tank.

5. Drain the waste water tank to remove as much water and waste from the restroom trailer as possible.

6. If the water heater has a drain, open and drain out water, then close the water supply valve and open the bypass valve to allow antifreeze to flow bypass the water heater. If there is no drain (which is common with small water heaters) the water heater will need to be removed or filled with antifreeze.


An RV anti-freeze (propylene glycol)is recommended for your restroom trailer. To add anti-freeze to the restroom trailer plumbing system it can be drawn from the existing on board water tank by dumping anti-freeze in the tank or by drawing from an individual container. It will take several gallons to be added to the system.

1. After anti-freeze is dumped into the restroom trailer fresh tank, turn on the water pump and open all of the fixtures until the pink anti-freeze flows out. (Can begin with faucet or toilet farthest from water supply)

2. Close each faucet as the pink solution flows freely from it. This also includes the water line to the toilet.

3. Perform this process with every restroom trailer sink and toilet.

4. Confirm anti-freeze is in every p-traps for the toilets, flushing urinals (if applicable) and sinks. An amount of anti-freeze left in waste tank will prevent the restroom trailer waste tank from freezing.


To use the compressed air method to winterize the restroom trailer, begin with the steps above to drain the existing water out of the system.

1. In order to clear the fresh water lines with air you will need an air compressor and a fitting to attach to the fresh water lines. Connect the air hose to the city fill connection.

2. If the restroom trailer has an on board fresh water tank, open the fresh tank fill valve and let the compressed air clear the fresh tank supply line. Once the water has cleared this line, close the valve.

3. Open the city fill valve. Then go to each of the sinks, toilets and urinals and let them run until only dry air comes out. It may be helpful to begin with the fixture farthest from the air supply. It may take several tries of opening the restroom trailer toilets & sinks until only air comes out and water has been removed.

Even though the water may have been removed from the fresh water system, you will still need to add anti-freeze to any P-traps where water may be trapped in the waste water system. This includes sinks, toilets or urinals.

Be sure to read the literature supplied with restroom trailer plumbing components, such as the pump, for troubleshooting tips. Also remember that it is possible for an electrical problem to cause water system problems. Lack of power to the pump can be caused by a variety of reasons. If you are unsure of how to locate and/or repair a plumbing problem, it is best to have a qualified plumber handle the job.


Quality solid surface countertops are used in Rich Specialty Trailers because of they are durable and resistant to water damage. Solid surface begins as an acrylic material which is manufactured into flat sheet panels and molded for use as counter tops in our restroom trailers.

Solid surface sheets may be bonded to each other to create a continuous seamless surface that is suitable for both horizontal and vertical use in a quality trailer. Most solid surface materials we use are made of two main ingredients: a natural mineral, which serves as the filler, and a resin, which serves as the binder. These are combined and then cast in a curing process that results in a durable sheet or a form shape.

The most common mineral used to manufacture solid surface counter tops is alumina tri-hydrate, or ATH. ATH is a refined form of bauxite ore and can comprise up to 75 percent of a sheet of solid surface. Bauxite is a form of clay. ATH is chemical and stain resistant, water-resistant, fire resistant, translucent and is hard enough to give impact-resistance, but soft enough to be machineable. Characteristics which make it ideal for a quality restroom trailer.

Two main resins used in the manufacturing of solid surface are acrylic and polyester. A purely acrylic-based resin yields a sheet that is thermoformable. It can be heated, bent into a new shape and cooled without any loss of performance characteristics. Polyester resins, including those that are mixed with acrylic, are used in demanding or high strength applications. With the addition of a catalyst, usually peroxide, the sheets are then cast and cured.

What is Great about the Solid Surface Counter Tops used in a Rich Specialty Restroom Trailer:

• Durable: resists chipping and cracking and retains its beauty
• Renewable: scratches, cuts and burns can be sanded away
• Available in classic solid colors and versatile patterns
• Homogeneous composition for color and pattern retention throughout the thickness of the sheet
• Offers seamless, one-piece appearance
• Stain-resistant and easy-to-clean
• Nonporous and hygienic: dirt can’t be trapped, liquids won’t penetrate, bacteria and fungi won’t grow


LG Surfaces is made to withstand life. In fact, no special cleaning products are needed to keep your countertop looking great day in, day out. But like all fine materials, damage may occur if your countertop is mistreated. To help prevent this from happening, we’ve outlined a few simple ways to be sure your countertop maintains its original elegance and beauty for years to come. Normal cleaning only requires a damp cloth and a mild cleanser. If you’ve chosen a matte finish, you can use an abrasive cleaner like Ajax or Comet. If you do use an abrasive cleaner, we recommend periodically cleaning the entire surface in a circular motion to maintain uniformity. Avoid using strong acidic cleansers (like those designed for drains, toilets or ovens). Some of them can cause whitening, which can be difficult to remove.

A few common sense precautions include not placing pans directly from the burner or oven on your countertops. Although LG HI‐MACS can withstand temperatures of up to 225 degrees, prolonged or extreme heat can cause yellowing.

Troublesome spills and stains, like food dye, tea and fruit drinks can be removed with full strength bleach followed by a general cleaner flushed with water. Be sure and not let the bleach remain on the surface for more than five minutes. If a lit cigarette should come in contact with your countertop, a nicotine stain or a scorch mark can occur. Simply use an abrasive cleaner or buff in a circular motion with a Scotch‐Brite® pad to remove.


Yes!  Make certain that the following items have been checked and rechecked before you take your restroom trailer on the road. Take a quick inventory of all items in your restroom trailer to be sure they are secured.

Make certain all items inside of your Restroom Trailer are secured for travel. Also be sure doors inside the trailer are closed and latched securely.

Front Hitch Jack – The front hitch jack of your Restroom Trailer should be raised as far as possible.

Stabilizer Jacks – Both the rear and front restroom trailer jacks should be raised as far as possible.

Doors and windows – Check through your Restroom Trailer to be sure that all doors and windows are closed and latched.

Pigtail – Check to be sure that the pigtail of your Restroom Trailer is connected properly to the tow vehicle’s electrical plug in.

Lights – The following lights should be tested on both your Restroom Trailer and the tow vehicle: for your Restroom Trailer: brake lights, warning lights, flashers, clearance lights, and taillights.

Hitch Coupler/Pin box- Inspect the hitch coupler or pin box on your Restroom Trailer to be sure they are secured.

Power Cord – The 110 volt shoreline cords on your Restroom Trailer must be unplugged from the external source and placed in its compartment with the storage hatch of your Restroom Trailer fastened shut.

Water Hoses and Shore Line Cords on your Restroom Trailer must be disconnected and all hose and pipe caps should be secured.

Steps- In upright position, folded or slide into transport position and securely pinned.

Tires – The proper air pressure for the tires on your Restroom Trailer is printed on the sidewall of the tire. Air pressure should always be checked when Restroom Trailer tires are cold in order to get the most accurate reading.

Before each trip check the tires of your Restroom Trailer for uneven wear, road damage, foreign objects or excessive peeling or bulging. Heat generated by surface friction will increase the tire’s air pressure approximately six to nine psi, so do not bleed air out of a hot tire since you run the risk of leaving your Restroom Trailer tires low on air pressure.


Of course! Our friendly and knowledgeable customer service manager is available to help with maintenance questions, service items or parts purchases.


Of course! Some items will need to be inspected and repaired on every trip and some items will be recommended throughout the year. It is important to keep your trailer clean on the inside on out and to check the exterior sealants/caulking every 90 days, including the roof sealants.  For a full maintenance chart click toggle below.